Turkey seeks EU protection for döner kebab, Germany resists

In April 2024, Turkey applied to protect döner kebab as a "guaranteed traditional specialty." This may affect kebab owners in Germany, their recipes, and their customers. The term döner refers to a traditional cooking technique, not a geographical area, argues Turkey.

Germany opposes this, arguing that "various preparation methods of this dish should be preserved," as it reflects the country's diversity. The European Commission has until September 24 to decide on this matter.

On the European Commission's website, you can find a recipe for traditional döner kebab. This product has two main types depending on the type of meat used: döner with red meat (beef and lamb) and döner with chicken. Döner is a traditional meat dish prepared by vertical roasting on a spit after marinating the meat (beef, lamb, or chicken) in spices such as black and white pepper, paprika, thyme, and salt.

Sometimes yogurt or milk is also added, although milk is not used when marinating chicken. Then, the meat is skewered and interspersed with thin pieces of animal fat (e.g., tail fat or beef suet). Beef and lamb can also be minced and used as a mix.

Restaurants have received specific guidelines for preparing döner with red meat. To skewer kebabs, you need 220 lbs of meat from cattle at least 16 months old or lamb from sheep over 6 months old, 18-22 lbs of animal fat, 4-7 lbs of yogurt or milk, 4-7 lbs of onions, 4-7 lbs of salt, and 0.2-0.4 lbs each of pepper, paprika, and thyme.

In the case of chicken döner, meat from chicken breasts or thighs is marinated in spices and salt, with the addition of yogurt (but without milk).

The meat is cut into slices 0.12-0.2 inches thick, and the chicken into slightly thicker pieces (0.4-0.8 inches). After being marinated for at least 10 hours at a temperature of 39°F, the meat is skewered, and slices of beef or lamb fat are placed between the layers of meat, forming a döner block.

The döner block is then cooked vertically in front of an adjustable stove, turning it for at least 45 minutes until the entire surface of the meat is evenly cooked. Various heat sources, such as natural gas, electricity, wood, or coal, are used during roasting. When ready, the meat is sliced into thin pieces 0.12-0.2 inches thick using a döner knife or a mechanical device.

If the EC approves Turkey's request, the popular kebabs in Germany with vegetables, turkey, and certain veal kebabs will not be allowed. The problem is that these are not mentioned in the application, which will confuse the German food industry.

According to the Berlin-based Association of Turkish Döner Producers in Europe, the industry generates annual sales of about 2.5 billion dollars in Germany alone and 3.8 billion dollars across Europe.