Oxtail revival: Why this forgotten delicacy is making a comeback

People have forgotten that oxtails were once a regular presence on the tables. Today, many people view them with disdain, even though they are highly valued in cuisines worldwide. For example, oxtails are a favorite in Andalusian cuisine, where a sensational oxtail stew is very popular. Meanwhile, oxtail soup is a delicacy in many Asian countries.

Oxtails are a type of refuse. They are known for their tender meat and high protein and collagen content. They make an excellent base for many dishes. If oxtail soup, one of the most popular oxtail-based dishes worldwide, does not appeal to you, try the recipe for aromatic oxtails braised in wine. The meat becomes so tender and juicy that it is hard to be picky.

Oxtails were valued in ancient Rome, especially among the poorer social classes. In old times, they were also eagerly consumed, and recipes for dishes using them appeared in the oldest cookbooks. One example is the "Excellent Chef" from 1783. There, you will find, among others, a recipe for oxtail stew cooked in broth and white wine, with the addition of onions, garlic, parsley, capers, and chopped anchovy.

Oxtails are still the base of many specialties worldwide. Spaniards savor oxtails (and even bull tails, which used to be eaten after bullfights) and prepare a famous stew, rabo de toro, based on them. It originates from the Spanish city of Córdoba but is known throughout Andalusian cuisine. Oxtail stew has been eaten since Roman times, but the known recipe likely dates back to the 19th century.

Oxtails also form the basis of sancocho, a soup served in Colombia, Ecuador, and Venezuela. The dish in the first two countries is sancocho de cola; in the latter, it is known as sopa de rabo.

Ingredients:

• 4.4 lbs of oxtail
• 3 carrots
• 1 parsley root
• 2 onions
• The white part of a leek
• 5 cloves of garlic
• 1 bottle of dry red wine
• Flour
• Pepper, salt, marjoram
• Oil for frying

Preparation:

1. Cut the oxtails into 2-inch pieces and remove excess fat. Place the oxtails in a dish.
2. Peel the carrots and parsley root and cut them into thick slices. Slice the leek, chop the onion into feathers, and peel the garlic cloves.
3. Add the vegetables to the oxtails. Pour all the wine over them, cover, and refrigerate for 24 hours.
4. After 24 hours, remove the oxtails from the marinade, dry them, season with salt, pepper, and marjoram, and then dust with flour. Fry on both sides until golden brown.
5. Sauté the vegetables from the marinade in a pan.
6. Transfer the oxtails and vegetables to a baking dish and pour the remaining marinade.
7. Bake for about 3 hours at 375°F or until the meat is tender.