How to prepare your tires for the upcoming winter

Let's start with the tires stored in the garage because they're easier to inspect when they're not mounted on the vehicle. You can examine them from every angle. Begin with this step.

There's no need to worry if you notice slight "scratches" on the sidewall or a small piece of tread missing. However, cuts—especially on the side—warrant a trip to a tire repair shop. It's best to ask for the tire to be repaired rather than inquire if it's safe to drive. If the shop can repair it, the damage will not affect safety. But be cautious: shops might suggest replacements to boost profits if you ask for damage assessments first.

Your inspection should also focus on the rubber itself. A good tire will have no cracked rubber, especially on the shoulders and sidewalls, where the surface should be smooth. Check the production date because if the tire is more than 5-6 years old, it isn't suitable as a winter tire. While legal to use, it's not recommended.

Remember, the critical date is when you purchased the tire. If it was manufactured in 2019 but installed in 2021, treat it as if it's 3-4 years old (depending on whether you installed it early or late). For more information on tire age, refer to the text below.

Next is the vital task of checking the tread depth. The minimum tread depth required by regulations is 1/16 inch. However, a safe depth for winter tires is 5/32 - 6/32 inches. New winter tires usually have a tread depth of about 9/32 - 10/32 inches.

Once the tread depth falls below 5/32 inches, the tire's ability to grip snow or slush decreases, as does its capacity to channel water away (enhancing water dispersal). Shallow tread significantly raises the risk of hydroplaning.

The tread depth should be checked across the entire width of the tire. It's often thinner at the edges, which is normal but shouldn't be less than 3/32 inches. If it is, the tire is no longer usable.

It's also essential to check the tread depth of all tires. Drivers rarely rotate their tires, which means the rear tread might remain thick while the front wears down to the safe limit. After two to three seasons, there can be a difference of about 1/16 inch, which isn't indicative of suspension issues.

Inspecting all-season tires can be more complicated since they're typically on the car, not in the garage. This situation makes a thorough inspection more challenging. Even if they appear fine from the outside, tires can be damaged from the inside. Consider removing the wheels or visiting a workshop.

My suggestion is to remove the wheels, as you might need to do so anyway to rotate the tires—a task many neglect. However, before making a decision, check the tread depth.

Here's the issue: while a tread depth of 5/32 inches is adequate for summer tires, it may not be sufficient for winter tires. If your all-season tires have a tread depth of 5/32 inches before winter, it's time to consider replacement. But what should you do with them when they're still good for summer?

Theoretically, you can switch them to summer use and get another season from them. However, reinstalling these tires contradicts the savings that all-season tires are meant to offer. You can read more about the disadvantages of all-season tires in the text below.

Moreover, all-season tires perform worse under severe winter conditions than dedicated winter tires. Therefore, when using them in winter, aim for a minimum tread depth of 6/32 inches rather than 5/32 inches.