Forest mustard: A culinary journey from ancient origins to your refrigerator

Mustard, primarily made from mustard seeds, belongs to a few cold sauces that have garnered considerable recognition. The mustard seed plant, first cultivated almost 2000 years BC in the Indus Valley, was originally used by Chinese cooks, who ground the seeds into a paste to serve before meals as an appetite stimulator.

It was the ancient Romans who then mixed ground mustard seeds with unfermented grape juice, establishing the origins of mustard. Over time, the ingredient list expanded. "De re coquinaria," a cookbook penned around the turn of the 4th and 5th century, included a sauce recipe containing ground mustard, pepper, caraway, lovage, thyme, onion, honey, vinegar, and fish sauce.

The 10th century marked mustard's introduction to France, with monks from the Parisian monastery of Saint-Germain-des-Prés pioneering its production. Eventually, Dijon became the mustard capital.

Today, mustard is cherished worldwide, often serving as a condiment for cold and hot meats. It's also a popular ingredient in sauces, vinaigrettes, and marinades. In countries like Belgium and the Netherlands, mustard soup is a crowd favourite. While various mustard types are readily available in stores, you can prepare them easily at home, particularly in the forest variant.

The essence of mustard, defining its taste and aroma, is derived from its seeds. To create a forest sauce, it's advisable to use seeds from the cruciferous white mustard plant, a lesser-known family member of cabbage, cauliflower, or kohlrabi.

Despite their small size, these seeds pack an impressive nutritional punch. White mustard aids digestive system regulation by significantly boosting saliva production essential for digestion. The seeds are also rich in iron, magnesium, and selenium, contributing to the immune system's functionality. In addition to their antifungal properties, they alleviate muscle spasms, treat joint pain, support heart health, and even counteract bad breath.

Furthermore, white mustard supports metabolism, assisting in protein synthesis and fat and carbohydrate processing. It effectively detoxifies the body and strengthens bones and teeth.

A valuable ingredient of forest mustard is pine oil. Though sometimes available at health food stores, it can easily be prepared at home. The ideal timing would be late spring, during May or early June, when young pine shoots are still laden with scales and resin.

Begin by placing a handful of the fresh shoots into a jar; add oil, preferably rapeseed or sunflower, ensuring the buds are fully immersed – about half a litre should suffice. After securely closing the jar, leave it in a warm, sunny location, gently shaking its contents occasionally. After approximately a month, the oil should assume a distinctive forest taste and aroma.

You'll need 12 tablespoons of white mustard seeds to prepare your mustard. Place these in a jar, cover them with boiled water, and let them sit overnight. The next day, drain the seeds and grind them in a mortar until the desired consistency is achieved. Continue crushing as you add 2 tablespoons of wine vinegar and 2 tablespoons of honey, preferably heather honey. Season with salt and pepper and enrich with your choice of herbs, such as marjoram. Gradually combine with the pine oil. Transition to a blender for the final mixing stage, if wished.

Transfer the resultant mustard into a jar and refrigerate for a few hours, allowing the flavours to integrate fully.