Common myths about changing tires. Everything you should know

There's a typical misunderstanding often repeated: "We put better tires on the front." This idea may sound logical and is even supported by some tire fitters who argue that driving calmly and operating under good conditions with better tires on the front axle may reduce braking distance in critical situations and cause quicker tire wear. This quick wear, in theory, allows for tread balancing compared to the rear tires.

But if we prioritize safety, we should opt for tires with thicker treads on the back. These tires perform notably better on wet surfaces, which pose more risk and increase the likelihood of skidding. It's important to note that a rear axle skid on wet asphalt is significantly more dangerous than a front axle skid.

Certain workshops that specialize in changing tires tend to follow a system of marking tires based on their previous positions on the vehicle. Tire fitters use symbols such as RF, LF, LR, and RR, which stand for Right Front, Left Front, Left Rear, and Right Rear, respectively. These markings determine the placement of the tires during the installation process.

However, this practice may often lead to mistakes. Tires should ideally be rotated at least once a year. If the tires' wear and tear don't show prominent differences, it is advisable to install them inversely - moving the front tires to the back and vice versa. Exceptions to this advice include situations where the front tires display more significant wear, in which case they should remain at the front.

There are three main aspects that frequently require adjustments post-visit to the mechanic. Many car owners often find themselves manually rectifying certain elements following straightforward repairs made at a workshop. Most commonly, these corrections are related to the tire pressure, which is typically checked and potentially adjusted immediately after replacement. Rarely do mechanics inflate tires to the pressure recommended by the vehicle's manufacturer.

An additional element often needing adjustment is the tightness of the screws. This process can be challenging, as screws may be over-tightened, making them hard to later loosen (such as during wheel replacement following a puncture), or may become loose after a few days on the road. It is worth noting whether the mechanic uses a torque wrench to tighten the screws. If not, it is likely that adjustments are needed.

Finally, the balance of the wheels often requires attention. If the tires were stored without their rims during the winter, they will likely need rebalancing after being driven a few hundred kilometers.

Deciding on tires solely based on their cost is a mistake. Cheap cars are generally older or belong to a lower class, which implies their technical condition, technology, and safety levels may be lacking. Any opportunity to enhance safety, such as installing high-quality tires, should be utilized. The rule of thumb is: the worse the car condition, the better the tires should be. Modern vehicles are equipped with safety systems that provide control over the car and, in worst-case scenarios, protect the passengers during an accident.

Savings can be made when purchasing tires by checking their manufacturing year. You could save money by finding tires from a previous year in online stores. It's a myth that tires should only be purchased from the year of their fitting. Even tires that are two or three years old are still valuable if they have never been used, and many distributors often sell them at lower prices.