LifestyleBatumi: A city of contrasts where luxury mingles with poverty amid increasing tourism

Batumi: A city of contrasts where luxury mingles with poverty amid increasing tourism

Batumi is a city of contrasts. Wealth mixes here with great poverty.
Batumi is a city of contrasts. Wealth mixes here with great poverty.
Images source: © o2 | Sonia Stępień

12:04 AM EST, January 14, 2024

Batumi in European Georgia immediately captivated me with its vacation-like ambiance that almost felt exotic.

Palm trees dominate the local flora while bamboos are not a rare sight either.

The seaside promenade is reminiscent of pedestrian zones in Miami. Seeing the lifeguard shack on the beach, I wouldn't have been surprised to spot a slow-motion David Hasselhoff in red swimming trunks emerging from it.

Batumi, the 'Georgian Dubai': Luxury hotels juxtaposed with paradise-like beaches

The second element of Batumi's landscape that most catch the eye would undoubtedly be the shiny skyscrapers, earning it the nickname "Georgian Dubai."

The city's skyline is dominated by towering apartment buildings and luxury hotels. Building buildings bearing the Hilton, Marriott, and Sheraton logos are particularly noticeable in the city center.

These structures are at least 20 stories high, are close to the sea, and stand out for their modern architecture. Below them, parking lots boast big, new SUVs and polished limousines. Women appear clad head to toe in Louis Vuitton.

Palm trees are one of the most common trees in Batumi.
Palm trees are one of the most common trees in Batumi.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
The seaside promenade looks like paradise.
The seaside promenade looks like paradise.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
Beach in Batumi
Beach in Batumi© o2 | Sonia Stępień
The views in Batumi are simply heavenly.
The views in Batumi are simply heavenly.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
Many new skyscrapers are being built in the city.
Many new skyscrapers are being built in the city.© o2
Sheraton hotel building
Sheraton hotel building© o2 | Sonia Stępień
In Batumi, there are also plenty of beautiful, ornate, historic buildings.
In Batumi, there are also plenty of beautiful, ornate, historic buildings.© o2 | Sonia Stępień

The squares in the city's most tourist-centric area—around the coast, are immaculate and adorned with flowers. Amidst the neatly trimmed bushes, various monuments, fountains, and beautifully lit sculptures can be found.

While planning a dinner out, be prepared for a multitude of choices.

The quay lures you with cruises on the turquoise waters of the Black Sea. Elsewhere, the massive hotel inspired by the Roman Colosseum or the gleaming monument of the Georgian alphabet, crowned with a restaurant at the top, beckons influencers searching for photogenic spots for photo shoots.

The romantic moving sculpture "NIno and Ali" in the port part of Batumi.
The romantic moving sculpture "NIno and Ali" in the port part of Batumi.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
Park in Batumi
Park in Batumi© o2

Batumi's other side: Dilapidated buildings, stray dogs

However, when you look beyond the shine and luxury, beyond the gilded statues and adorned facades of historic buildings, and turn your gaze to the "second background" of the city, you encounter a different face of Batumi.

The one tourists prefer to ignore. The one that finds no place in their souvenir photos before they share them on social media.

During a cruise on the Black Sea, you can admire the city's panorama.
During a cruise on the Black Sea, you can admire the city's panorama.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
The Alphabet Tower in Batumi at night
The Alphabet Tower in Batumi at night© o2 | Sonia Stępień

Decades-old blocks of flats can be seen here, from which plaster is falling off, and balconies with missing railings. Endless lines of drying laundry weave between buildings. Block-like houses sprout next to each other, nearly touching walls.

Cows stroll along the streets, and cars devoid of bumpers hobble by. Traffic norms are blatantly ignored as street vendors try to entice passers-by.

Stalls are selling cheap toys and popcorn, springing up where impoverished seniors try to supplement their income. Stray dogs roam around in search of sustenance.

Drying laundry is a characteristic sight in Batumi.
Drying laundry is a characteristic sight in Batumi.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
Many blocks are in terrible condition.
Many blocks are in terrible condition.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
Blocks in Batumi
Blocks in Batumi© o2 | Sonia Stępień

How is it possible that in such an ideally situated place with tourism-baiting and varied landscapes, lovable people, and a boom in construction investments, there's no funding available to refurbish residential blocks, even in the city center?

Why do ordinary residents of Batumi have to live in dire poverty while obscenely wealthy businessmen cruise around in limousines? What led to these glaring contrasts? The answer to all these questions can be distilled into a single word: politics.

Batumi is full of contrasts.
Batumi is full of contrasts.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
Hundreds of homeless dogs live in Batumi.
Hundreds of homeless dogs live in Batumi.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
Many cars driving around Batumi would not pass inspection.
Many cars driving around Batumi would not pass inspection.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
Batumi exemplifies the rich becoming richer at the expense of the already wealthy. This has become the norm since the fall of the USSR - explains George Megrelidze, a Batumi guide, in conversation with o2.pl.

The rich grow richer, the poor grow poorer

Georgia is currently working to attract investors by setting rules that make it easier to conduct business.

This sparked what's now known as an investment boom when an influx of casinos and hotels began to materialize in the country. Unfortunately, the considerable sums of money that usually found their way to foreign businessmen did not result in a better quality of life for the locals.

Another contributing factor to the deepening social inequality is the unregulated construction activity. Due to the absence of appropriate regulations, buildings are erected haphazardly, often shoulder to shoulder, window against window.

Investors show negligible concern for the future residents of the premises. The focus lies solely on selling as quickly and as much as possible.

This is a business game that aims to profit from selling apartments while wreaking havoc on Batumi's charm. Imagine so many skyscrapers without parking spaces, squares, courtyards, etc. Just buildings jostling for space. While construction companies make hefty profits, locals who own property in Batumi are left out in the cold - further explains George to o2.pl.

A native of Batumi highlights that while the city is becoming increasingly attractive for tourists and entrepreneurs, logically, the value of locals' homes and apartments should rise.

New buildings are being built right next to each other.
New buildings are being built right next to each other.© o2 | Sonia Stępień
Houses are covered with sheet metal, many of them are in poor condition.
Houses are covered with sheet metal, many of them are in poor condition.© o2 | Sonia Stępień

Ironically, the reality is a stark contrast—due to construction chaos and a surge in new residential buildings, properties in Batumi are getting cheaper each year.

Real progress, therefore, starts with systematic changes. Locals have little chance of improving their living conditions without new legal provisions. For the time being, this seems unlikely.

Meanwhile, we can contribute by visiting this fascinating place of extremes and help boost its economy. It's genuinely worth being here.

I believe that people coming to Batumi with the aim of getting rich should be required to invest a certain amount into the local community, which should then be used towards creating better infrastructure, schools, etc. That way, Batumi wouldn't just be a city of stark contrasts, and the locals could live better too - concludes the guide.
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